The story of each wearer has been slowly recorded on each pair, from the abrasion patterns to the areas of wear. The whiskering and grease stains, the tell tale signs of what each pair has lived through. To achieve this effect naturally could take years of wearing. A pair of jeans that are completely personal to you and tell a very special story…
Crafted
Raw jeans are crafted from unwashed denim straight off the mill. Usually finished Indigo dyed it is how the majority of all denims start. Raw denim has increased in popularity recently and Its In Your Jeans stocks a range of raw denim jeans from brands such as Lee 101, Nudie, Edwin and Made and Crafted Levis.
The dyeing process used for raw denim was initially taken from an indigo plant. Indigo’s properties are a good match for denim. Strong colourfastness to water and light and a continual fading combined with its inability to penetrate through fibers completely make it the perfect dye.
This allows the blue colour in jeans to always look irregular and individual. Pre-1920’s jeans were generally dyed with natural indigo and were the start of vintage jeans. The majority of indigo used today is synthetically made. Natural indigo has a slightly red cast.
Developed
It is from this initial dying process that a new pair of raw jeans is born. When first bought raw denim is often stiff and plain blue in colour. The denim has never been washed or softened and so needs “wearing in” by literally wearing the jeans. After wearing for a few days the jeans will start to soften and actually shape to your body.
Over time your jeans will start to fully bed in. You will notice wear and fading naturally occurs in the places where you move or keep things in your pockets. For example whiskering will occur at the top of the legs and behind the knee. Abrasions may start to show on the front of the knees if you kneel down a lot, or on the back pocket where you keep your wallet!
Your mum won’t like this but try to avoid washing your jeans! This will allow you to get the best natural wear! Obviously if you spill something on your jeans you can wash them. However, did you know you can kill the bacteria on your denim buy putting them in the freezer for a few days?! Not only will this freshen your jeans up but it will also help maintain their colour and shape! The more you wear your jeans the better they will become as they will “wear in” gradually, becoming completely individual to you!
Aged
The process of wearing in denim takes a great deal of patience. It is true that a worn in pair of raw jeans look truly beautiful but some people will still prefer the feel and convenience of a pre washed jean.
A lot of blood, sweat and tears have gone into discovering techniques that speed up denim ageing and wear processes. These techniques produce a naturally vintage look so people can get that worn in feel straight away. Below are some of the more common wear patterns and the way in which they are re-created in washed jeans.
Whiskering – Becoming One
Whiskering is usually the first thing you will notice when wearing in raw denim. It develops through movement, where natural folds in the denim occur
In washed jeans whiskering is a forged fading of the ridges in the crotch area and back of the knees that gives the appearance of aged denim. Often whiskering on washed jeans is more exaggerated than the natural wearing of raw denim. This trend was originally created by hip hop designers who wanted to see if they could get the masses wearing jeans that focused the attention on the crotch. When you look around at what people are wearing today, you’ll find they’ve nearly succeeded!
Abrasions – Abuse Through Love
The term “abrasions “can refer to many different things from small fading to frays and rips. When wearing in raw jeans you will see abrasions developing around the pockets where you put your hands in and out, as well as where you actually keep things in your pockets. The knees will also show abrasion wear if you kneel down a lot and from the movement of your legs. The abrasions in raw jeans will continually change and increase as your jeans wear in and age. The speed of this process depends on the abuse you inflict on your jeans.
In washed jeans this part of the process makes the garments look worn and aged by scraping or rubbing the surface of the fabric causing abrasions. Some abrasions may be small rubs but they can also be large frays or even ripped areas. Abrasions are made to mimic the effect of hard work and age on the jeans. Many brands now offer a variety of wear patterns made to simulate varying ages of denim, from one to ten year washes and so on.
Stone or Enzyme Washing – Through Thick and Thin
This process removes colour and adds contrast to the denim using stones. The fabric and stones are rotated together for a set period of time washing the denim. The washing time dictates the final colour of the fabric. The longer the denim and stones are rotated together the lighter the colour becomes and more contrast is achieved. The denim is then rinsed, softened and tumble dried. For example, the Japanese company ‘Edwin’ uses this finishing technique.
Enzyme washing is a process considered more efficient and a more environmentally sound way to stone wash jeans. Rather than using pumice stones, organic enzymes are used to eat away at the indigo. Jeans finished using enzymes tend to be stronger than those broken down by traditional stone washing, as the fabric is not subjected to the same level of abuse.
In raw denim the effect created by stone washing comes with years of wearing. The natural fading and softening of the denim is earned through time and develops over years of dedicated wear.
It takes time and effort but the look of continually changing denim will tell the story of you and your jeans, worn through thick and thin; sadness and joy…
…A life portrayed in denim
It's In Your Jeans 